Burgos to Hontanas – 33km

Finally, the first day on the Camino is here and the 33 kilometers of my day one are behind me. Gosh it is warm here. And there are flies. And wheat. Lots of wheat.

I buried the lede, let’s talk about the walk from Burgos to my current spot – Hontanas. It was a gorgeous cool morning, but it was also dark at 0700 and if there had not been other pilgrims to follow I know I would have been lost. We all stumbled around the streets of Burgos looking for signs we were on the right path. Thankfully we were.

By the time the sunrise was at its peak, there were lovely colors in the sky, it was 7:50 or so and we were out of the city. This great guy commented to me how much he loved mornings, and I could only agree. We ended up walking all day together, he was really a great guy, from Segovia, Spain. We talked food and music (the first Spaniard I have met who loves Southern US rock!) for the entire first half of the day. He was staying in Hornillos, so we said “adios and buen Camino” after lunch.

Then the walk took an interesting turn. So have you ever walked in a lava field in Hawaii? It was just like that but instead of lava on a hot day, it was wheat fields. In Hawaii, the sound of the ocean? Was just more wheat fields. Distant palm trees? Wind turbines, surrounded by wheat fields.

Then there were flies. Three of them who seemed to want to walk to Santiago with me. Have you ever tried to swat away a fly caught on the inside of your sunglasses when your hands are holding walking sticks? Just as I was feeling embarrassed about this, I turned to see that all the pilgrims around me were nowhere to be seen.

Did I miss the turn off for some kind of pilgrim oasis? I was sure that all the other pilgrims were instead of swatting away flies and getting thirsty and hot, were diving into a cold swimming pool while drinking cold Fanta.

Finally an albuerbue sign came into view. Hontanas – 2 kilometers. I was estactic until I realized 2 kilometers is still a long ways. I was pretty happy when I saw a rather large building come into view until I realized it was just a huge stack of hay bales.

Ok ok the day was great…. Really great. I loved every minute of my first day… and I made a Buddhist peace with the flies. I am now resting in Hontanas at the albuergue getting ready for the 7:00 communal paella dinner. I washed my stinky clothes, made reservations at the next two albuergues, had a cold Fanta (so gooooood) and had time to say hi to you all here.

Finishing with an amazing sunset. BTW the paella was amazing!

The journey begins

My new naked friend – el peregrino.

Note: this was written over the last 48 hours as I flew from Portland to Salt Lake City, long delay, then to Amsterdam, then to Madrid, spent the night and took a bus to Burgos, where I am now.

This moment, at the precipice of the journey is always a bit stressful. There is the unknowing, new things which make the journey exciting. The simple task of using the restroom becomes loaded with uncertainty, how do these European toilets work?

I am on the other side of a 9 hour flight and it’s still pandemic time so the flight was maybe a quarter full. This meant I had two seats to myself. I can barely contort my body to turn two seats into a “bed” but I did and got as much shut eye as roaring jet engines will allow.

It’s now Tuesday morning and after a mellow but fun night in the Madrid suburb of Barajas, and a good nights sleep, I am on a bus bound for Burgos. Burgos is my jumping off spot for the Camino. I am arriving a day later than I had hoped due to the delayed flight out of Salt Lake. (Side note: one afternoon here is enough, how Buddhist that I was delayed but that actually made things better)

Last night (in Barajas) I went to a couple of local places for a small beer. One offered me a chopped up fresh tomato as a free tapa – the second one, a deep fried piece of pig, sort of bacon like but more gristly, perhaps pigs ear? Vegetarians look away, I eschewed the tomatoes for pigs ear.

This morning I woke up early and headed to the only place open at 6:00 am, a little churros spot on the plaza mayor. The largish churro maker was so sweet to me with my bad Spanish, I am full of regret that I didn’t study more before leaving. He serves me up the best cafe con leche since I left the Camino in 2019. So aesthetically pleasing with chocolate colored liquid in a little glass. The churros are made fresh in front of you, but I decide to forego for now – I am regretting that decision.

Arrived in Burgos and I have had a great few hours exploring the town. Burgos has a massive cathedral with lots of pilgrim connections. Sadly the one spot I wanted to visit was blocked off today. I am seeing lots of pilgrims and I am more than ready to be one of them, and get some miles under my belt.

Burgos Cathedral

Also had my first tortilla – this is a baked dish of potatoes, onions, and cheese which is a staple of the pilgrim diet in Spain. I will grow very tired of it soon, but it’s so fun to take my first bite.

Carb loading?

I am having issues uploading pictures so bear with me.

Oh the drama of slow WiFi.

These boots are made for…

In the final prep stage and getting excited to fly out on Sunday. Before I go, tomorrow I will say “so long” to many dear friends and co-workers. I know this is the right decision but after 16 years it is very hard to say goodbye.

I have been so privileged to work with the amazing people of Providence St. Vincent hospital here in Portland. They are heroes. They are my heroes.

Last Sunday before Spain

https://youtu.be/xdw24jTCSA4

It was a gorgeous morning for a training walk around town. I wanted to get some miles in before a lunch date with my dear friends Kate and Colleen.

The day turned out better than I expected. The post rain storm air smelled great and the plants and trees seemed so vibrant. I even came across a young doe and her fawn navigating the subdivision up the way.

Had a great catch up lunch with my friends at Helvetia Tavern. A perfect day.

Video: Training Time in Oregon

I am really hoping to share videos from Spain on this Camino. I am using my training time here in Forest Grove to work on my shooting and editing. Would love feedback.

My 2021 Camino route

A couple of you were asking where I am walking this time around… the map above shows the Camino Frances route – named because the typical start spots are in France. I do not have enough time to walk the full 500 miles from St. Jean so I am starting in Burgos.

This will be about 300 miles. My 2019 Camino started in Porto, Portugal and I think I went a little over 200 miles but that included the 3 day walk out to Finisterre (not shown on the map above).

Camino in the time of COVID

Queets River – April, 2021

Welcome to my second Camino walk. Thank you for coming for a visit and to walk with me.

Camino, for me, is more than a long walk across Spain. It is a sacred time to open my senses, to be mindful of the land, architecture, history and food of northern Spain. Also to rediscover pain in the body, to meet new friends and speak bad Spanish. I am so glad you want to share this experience.

After almost 2 years of not traveling – I am grateful for all that I have – my health, my spirit, and the resources to travel and explore.

I hope to walk to the end of the world, Finisterre, where the land meets the sea.  It is often crowded but in many ways a lonely place. It is here that I said goodbye to my mom and I am excited to be with her again… she has a way of showing up at the most interesting times.

Thank you again for your friendship and curiosity – come walk with me.